The entire Cars4funGarage is made up of me (a bit of a workaholic, to be honest), Marty, and my soulmate Týna, who takes care of everything related to upholstery, all kinds of details, cleaning, and brings the right feminine touch, cleanliness, and precision to the whole thing. Anyone who knows me knows I tend to give too much of myself in every direction, but at a certain point, that's just not sustainable. We're already dedicating everything we have to this, often at the expense of everything else — including ourselves. So I apologize in advance if I don't respond to a question, request, or message right away. All the problem-solving, major repairs, sourcing parts, handling complications (and trust me, there are quite a few with our beloved projects), receiving and handing over cars, being the go-to guy on the phone — sometimes it’s just hell. If you haven't lived it, you won't understand. But the most important thing is that we love it and it truly fulfills us ❤️ That said, everything needs to have some structure and rules.

Order/description of defect/problem:

To order services click here Please provide a brief description of the issue, along with basic information about the car (model designation / kW / or ideally VIN number). It’s also helpful to include what kind of previous service was done (especially if anything related to the current issue was already addressed), or what might have led up to the problem. For cars that haven’t been here before, I automatically carry out a full initial inspection. If you're planning a more extensive service, seasonal prep, etc., please book well in advance — ideally at least 2 months ahead — and we’ll definitely find a way to make it work. Just note that I’m usually not able to give you a precise time slot more than a week in advance. For small or urgent jobs for regular customers, I try to handle them as quickly as possible. Unfortunately, I never know exactly what’s coming — some cars before yours might stay here a week, others a month. For quick fixes, we can arrange something based on current workload. I do what I can, but as we all know — especially with older used cars — things can get unpredictable. Also, please don’t forget to set a budget limit, especially in the case of larger repairs or renovations, so I can tailor the work accordingly. 

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Major repairs/overhaul

For larger repairs or overhauls, please keep in mind that while the cost may be significant, you’re not getting a brand-new car, gearbox, or engine. So it’s important to honestly consider whether you plan to keep the car for a few more years — otherwise, the investment might not be worth it in the long run. Every older vehicle (especially those that were expensive when new or have been poorly maintained) will eventually require a major service. And unless you're able to do the work yourself using self-sourced parts at minimal markup, it's something to think through carefully. In the case of more complex repairs, partial rebuilds, or overhauls of critical components, the warranty — as is standard in most garages — only applies to the specific parts that were found to be faulty and replaced during the repair. While it’s highly unlikely, if something like a gearbox shaft breaks, an internal basket component fails, or an original piston cracks, or an older injector fails and causes further damage — these unfortunate events cannot be covered under warranty if the specific part wasn’t identified as faulty or replaced during the repair. Simply put: a warranty cannot apply to components that weren’t repaired, replaced, or showing any defects at the time. Again, the chances of this are very low, but I need to be transparent about it. I always aim to recommend replacing as many interconnected or high-risk components as possible during major work to minimize future failure risks. However, by default, parts that don’t show any clear damage or wear are not replaced, unless you request it. It all depends on your budget, and we always follow the manufacturer’s/service manual guidelines. Exceptions apply if we’re building an engine or transmission for higher stress or racing purposes — I’ll be happy to discuss that with you via message or in person. For work examples, click here → general repairs and routine repairs.

Automatic transmissions

Automatic transmissions — and generally all gearboxes, differentials, and engines — are highly sensitive to oil quality and age. Unfortunately, transmission maintenance is often the most overlooked. What’s crucial is preventive care, regular checks, and timely oil changes. The standard service interval is usually between 40,000–60,000 km, and should be adjusted based on how the car is used: Long highway trips may allow for a longer interval, while city driving or sporty driving requires shortening it. Most automatic transmissions rely entirely on hydraulic pressure controlled by the mechatronic unit (the brain of the transmission). Failures in this system often lead to wear on clutches, torque converters, and other components. For example, if the torque converter fails, simply replacing it without checking the mechatronic unit will most likely result in a greatly reduced lifespan of the new part. Therefore, a warranty cannot be provided for a new torque converter unless the rest of the system is properly checked during installation — especially output pressure from the mechatronic unit and related parameters. Another common mistake with automatic transmissions — especially in tuned or modified cars — is using sporty or aggressive driving in “D” mode. In these situations, most transmissions switch to a different internal map, often with lower output pressure, leading to more clutch slip and reduced lifespan. If you enjoy spirited driving, always switch to “S” (Sport) mode or manual mode, if your vehicle supports it. In line with this, it’s important to mention: Any power increase (chip tuning, remapping, etc.) should always be accompanied by a transmission upgrade — either in software or hardware. For transmissions like the ZF 6HP/8HP or DCT, we offer XHP Flash — a software upgrade specifically designed to handle higher torque, reduce clutch slip, and offer significantly more customization, including improvements to the “D” mode (e.g. preventing low-RPM bogging). For examples of automatic transmission repairs, click here → here.

Custom exhaust/air duct/TIG welding

We offer complete production from aluminum, stainless steel, titanium, inconel. Along with the modification, it is necessary to design and produce optimal air and exhaust lines. We will do everything exactly to your specifications according to the overall vehicle setup and requirements. We also offer the production of reinforced hardline lines for the oil/fuel/hydraulic system.

CHIPTUNING/DYNO

Chiptuning / Performance Tuning – A Few Things You Should Know These days, basic tuning can be done by almost anyone — even remotely, as long as you’re able to download and upload the ECU file yourself. Thanks to services known as “file services”, where a provider edits your map (sometimes within an hour) and sends it back to you, the barrier to entry is low. And while these files aren’t necessarily bad, this method has become widespread among numerous companies in the country, many of which focus purely on profit and have little understanding of how things actually work or why. Of course, there are legitimate tuning companies out there doing things properly — but they’re few and far between. And you can be sure you won't be getting a proper tune for just 3,000 CZK. We’ve even seen cases where customers paid for a tuning service but the map was never actually changed — they just experienced a placebo effect for a while. Unfortunately, we've had to deal with this more than once. ⚠️ Be very cautious when choosing a tuner. Let’s be honest — the tuning scene is pretty toxic overall. People constantly talk trash about each other while claiming to be the only real “guru,” yet most can’t even explain what someone else is doing wrong, let alone properly analyze a map or back up their opinions with data. So what should we think about that? 🤷‍♂️ “You have to tune only on a dyno!” – Really? You’ve probably heard people say, “A car can only be tuned properly on a dyno – there’s no other way!” 😄 Let’s break that down: Yes, a dyno is ideal for comparing before/after power figures, and we like to use it for that purpose. It also helps with more complex tuning on high-performance builds, where logging on the road can be unsafe or not possible. But for standard Stage 1 setups on factory hardware, a dyno is not essential. In fact, the best approach is often a combination of both dyno and road tuning — because nothing can truly replace real-world driving conditions. Both methods use the same diagnostics and external sensor logging, whether you're on the street or a dyno. The dyno simply simulates real-world driving and makes the tuning process easier in a controlled environment — but it’s not magic. Stage 1 – What to Expect Basic performance tuning (Stage 1) — i.e., a small performance bump on a stock vehicle — isn’t dangerous, as long as it's done by someone who knows what they’re doing. There’s no need for dramatic logging or complicated testing, and dyno testing is not mandatory. That said, it’s always a good idea to perform an initial inspection of the car and check everything is in good shape. We also like to do a final log run after tuning, just to make sure everything’s working as it should — even for Stage 1. 👉 That’s also why we don’t offer tuning “while you wait” — not even for basic maps. We prefer to do things properly, and we’ll be happy to explain everything in more detail via DM on Instagram or our Facebook page.

What are we capable of doing?

- DYNO TESTING
- MHD TUNING and everything around N55/54/B58 etc.
- Stage + to xx
– Hardcut/popcorn/pops & bangs
– Launch control
– EGR/DPF/FAP/del.
- Transmission maps

and more...